The little caruggi (alleyways) here are narrower than in the big city, and much steeper. Half of them are stairs, often winding around, and sometimes under, people's houses. It gives that half-indoor / half-outdoor architecture that is so appealing as human habitat - and challenging for urban sketchers!
The church tower is easier to draw, especially when you're sitting on the wharf in the sun with a chocolate croissant.
The area is largely overrun by tourists, but you can time hikes and train trips to avoid most of them, and it is easy to find quiet places off the beaten trails. Many of the tourists stay in nearby towns, so it is quieter in the piazza in the evening, when more locals come out for soccer games on the beach and discussions in the square.
* Oh yes, there really is a Commissioner of Good Taste.